+NO CHOICE+

When you live two hours from a wave, and once you can snag a day off you know you don't have an option but to drive all morning to go surf. Watching surf flicks, checking photos, and frothing all week means whether it's over head and barreling or knee slappers and foamy you gotta get out there because you've only got a couple days a week. You'll regret it if you don't. I look at it as not having a choice but to surf.  x